Though the latter is indeed sweet, it presents the salad maker with a practical problem in that it bleeds its sweet purple juices into everything else, muddying the flavours as well as the colours. Felicity Cloake is the perfect travelling companion - curious, funny, philosophical, and, best of all, imperishably greedy. Paperback. All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative. They will never have the acidity of their fresh brethren, so I would suggest adding a spritz of lemon juice to the fruit before cooking to help boost their flavour. Photograph: Felicity Cloake/Guardian. Using plain flour, as in Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, or even finer “tipo 00” flour as in The River Cafe Classic Italian Cookbook, will give you a softer, more tender crumb; while Richard Bertinet’s mixture of strong bread flour and coarse semolina in his book Dough creates a more robust, chewy texture. This olive-oil soaked Italian bread is delicious topped with sun-dried tomatoes or olives, but should you go for plain flour to produce a soft crumb, or strong flour and semolina for a chewier texture? Too much flour and you end up with something resembling a doorstop.”. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian Flavourings. I do, however, enjoy the turnips Corrigan uses instead, writing in The Clatter of Forks and Spoons, “I like that little bitterness in your mouth to offset the sweetness of some of the other vegetables … we don’t have enough bitterness going on in our cooking overall.” Sweet, in his case, means carrots, which are present in every recipe I try, and beetroot, which is used less often. Dill is a common choice among those that do, while Corrigan takes that “slightly liquorice” flavour even further with tarragon, and the Prawn Cocktail Years suggests chives, which offer a more subtle flavour than Hilferty’s spring onion; again, the aim here is that no one ingredient should overwhelm the rest. See more ideas about recipes, food, sweet recipes. And don’t feel the need to overload it with salt, either: a mere teaspoon should be quite sufficient given how much there is in the dough. An easy-but-impressive showstopper? Richard Corrigan’s Russian salad. It’s known and loved from India to Lisbon. And, if you’re feeling really adventurous, the River Cafe even does a dessert version with black grapes and fennel seeds. Knock back the dough, and lightly dust the baking tray with the semolina, if using. And why oh why is the UK one of the few European countries to spurn its mayonnaisey charms? Focaccia – is it the king of Italian breads, or do you prefer ciabatta, farinata or carta da musica? An all-you-need-to-know guide to modern eating and entertaining, packed with delicious recipes, from Perfect author, and perfect host, Felicity Cloake. They may be spilling from shelves right now, but should you have an uncontrollable urge for an apricot tart when they’re not in season, you could do a lot worse thanMary Berry’s “wobbly” versionusing the tinned variety. Wed 5 Feb 2014 06.00 EST. Thumbnails by Felicity Cloake. Peas are another favourite, and add a pleasing spherical element to all those little cubes (dicing the vegetables is the hardest part of this recipe: as Siberian-born Alissa Timoshkina observes in her book Salt and Time, “the cooking method for this salad could not be simpler, yet also more time-consuming”); though, since mushy peas are only delicious on a fish supper, I’d suggest pouring a kettle of boiling water over them rather than simmering them with the other vegetables, so they retain their characteristic springy freshness. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian. Whatever you go for, having made six of the things in quick succession, I’d agree with chef Trish Hilferty in her excellent book of fish and potato recipes, Lobster and Chips: “It’s important to cook the vegetables separately and in strict order,” rather than putting them all in the same pan and hoping for the best. Cut the carrot and turnip into large chunks, but keep the potatoes whole, unless they’re particularly large. She’s written a brilliant new book all about her adventures and we caught up to talk about the good, bad and ugly aspects of her epic cycling and eating expedition. They are luxurious yet light, as big as hockey pucks, completely scrumptious and oh yes, I'd love another, thank you. Whisk together the remaining 30ml olive oil with 30ml water until emulsified. She’s right. Boeuf bourguignon almost always contains cured pork, too – after all, this is a French recipe, and two meats are better than one. Be careful not to overdo it, though, or the loaf won’t brown on top. As it isn’t widely available in this country, he recommends using equal parts strong bread flour and 00 for a similar result, and I agree – his loaf does have a pleasingly springy texture without being quite as stiff as those that use strong flour alone. Giorgio Locatelli’s book Made in Italy explains that, in his restaurant, they use “Italian extra-strong flour, which has a good elasticity and the power to absorb water well”. 13 Jun 2019. unavailable. Felicity Cloake has just made a batch of chocolate chip cookies. Whisk well to combine, then make a hole in the middle and add 100ml olive oil, plus 300ml water. Felicity Cloake is the New Statesman’s food columnist. Marinaded meat in Richard Olney’s beef bourguignon. She writes with self-deprecating humour and evocative grace. These recipes are here to inspire you. Gently press the dough out with your fingers to fit the baking tray. Try AbeBooks. Felicity Cloake. The capers in the Prawn Cocktail Years’ recipe do much the same job for salt, making both optional, but recommended. Poor old Yvette Cooper, an early casualty in the annual political stampede towards Remembrance Sunday. unavailable. Meanwhile, bring another pan of salted water to a boil, cook the beans for a couple of minutes until al dente, then scoop out with a slotted spoon into a sink or large bowl filled with cold water. Richard Bertinet’s focaccia. The bouncy whites and rich, crumbly yolks bring yet another texture to the party – if you’re serving the salad as a standalone dish, you might prefer, as Timoshkina suggests, to serve them cut in half on top instead. In 2018 Felicity spent a few months doing a kind of gastronomic Tour de France as she cycled and ate her way around in search of 21 iconic French dishes. If you want to keep the salad meat-free, you may be pleased to learn that hard-boiled eggs are, in my opinion, a non-negotiable ingredient. A book entitled Soupologie 5 a day Soups written by Stephen Argent, published by Kyle Books which was released on 17 September 2020. Learn about new offers and get more deals by joining our newsletter . Richard Bertinet's focaccia. Peel and grate in the eggs. She is a past winner of the Guild of Food Writers awards for Food Journalist of the Year. Notify me. (If you want to go really wild, note that Ghayour uses coriander in the version in her book Persiana.). Jul 5, 2016 - Felicity Cloake: Real bagels are a traditionally Jewish chewy delight that were imported to the US. 02 May 2013. Or a throw-it-all-in cake recipe? Follow @@felicitycloake. Some focaccia variants, notably this amazing-looking cheese-stuffed version, are true flatbreads, made without yeast, but here we’re seeking the fluffier sort. Put the potatoes in a pan of cold salted water, bring to a boil and cook until tender; be careful not to overcook them, or they’ll be hard to cut neatly later. Photograph: Felicity Cloake/The Guardian. Halved boiled eggs and a light dressing: Alissa Timoshkina’s Russian salad. • Russian salad, salat Olivier, salad Olivieh … whatever you call it, is it a nostalgic pleasure, a current favourite, or something that once came out of tins and is now best forgotten? Though I’m not going to put semolina flour in the bread itself, I do like the crunch it lends Bertinet’s version, so I will be dusting the baking tray with it, as I do when making pizza. Though many mass-produced versions go big on the spuds, this shouldn’t be a potato salad with benefits – if Russian salad is an orchestra of flavours and textures, then each player deserves to be heard. Photographs: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian. All focaccia contains olive oil, from a mere 2 tbsp in Hazan’s recipe to 150ml in the River Cafe version. By Felicity Cloake Updated: 04:39 EDT, 26 October 2009 . 59.9k Followers, 2,220 Following, 15.3k Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Felicity Cloake (@felicitycloake) Boil the egg for eight and a half minutes, then leave to cool while you drain, dry and chop the vegetables (except the peas) into 1cm dice and put them all in a large bowl. Completely Perfect. You could leave it there, but I also like the snap of the lightly cooked French beans in a couple of the recipes I try – testers, meanwhile, are very keen on the crispness of the apple with the sweetcorn and soft white beans in Ren Behan’s Polish version in Wild Honey and Rye. Her latest book is The A-Z of Eating: a Flavour Map for Adventurous Cooks. Felicity Cloake. As well as keeping the dough moist, the oil gives the bread its rich flavour, but I suspect the large quantity is also responsible for the slightly soft crust of the River Cafe loaf, so I’m going to reduce the amount slightly. Cauliflower seems to be popular in Italian translations, Lindsey Bareham and Simon Hopkinson’s version in the Prawn Cocktail Years includes cooked celery or celeriac, and Nieves Barragán Mohacho (who says in her book Sabor that she’s never met a Spanish person who doesn’t love ensaladilla rusa) piles hers on to little gem lettuce leaves and garnishes it with white asparagus and piquillo peppers. 375g strong white bread flour375g “tipo 00” flour (sometimes sold as pasta flour)1 tbsp fine sea salt8g active dry yeast130ml extra-virgin olive oil (100ml for the dough; 30ml for the topping, mixed with 30ml water and 1 tsp salt flakes)Water2 tbsp coarse semolina or cornmeal (optional). “That always reminds me of Barcelona.” Another had fond memories of mayonnaise-laden vegetable cubes from her schooldays in Brittany, while. In short, so long as you aim for a harmonious mixture of flavours and textures, and stick with cooked vegetables (this is not, I think, a place for the juicy crunch of the raw), use what you like – early recipes seem more focused on protein, in any case. “That always reminds me of Barcelona.” Another had fond memories of mayonnaise-laden vegetable cubes from her schooldays in Brittany, while Sabrina Ghayour describes it as one of the most popular salads in Iran and Niloufer Ichaporia King claims it as “a Parsi standard” in her book My Bombay Kitchen. Joining John and Andy to heed this call to culinary arms, written at a time of national crisis and thus exceptionally relevant to 2020, are journalist and food writer Felicity Cloake and author and adventurer Dan Richards. DORMANT PERFECT HOST. Giving carrots and an onion to a family of seven brought home how hard Christmas will be for so many. Personally, I like dill, but chives are a happy alternative for those, like some of my testers, who are sworn against the stuff. Felicity Cloake. Cut the ham into strips and add to the bowl with the herbs. When this time has nearly elapsed, heat the oven to 220C and put a pizza stone or baking tray in there to heat up. The focaccia is best eaten warm. 23 Oct 2013. Fortunately, I did manage to try it first. (You could, of course, leave them out entirely, and use vegan mayonnaise, to make an entirely plant-based version.). Cut the gherkins into 1cm dice and add to the bowl with two tablespoons of their pickling vinegar, the capers and peas. Put the peas in a colander, pour a kettle of boiling water over them, then put with the rest of the vegetables. If you have a water spray, ready it. Only last week, I was discussing with Pavol ( a super talented Slovakian database guy I work with) my weekend plans to make a Beef Goulash. Serve, Store & Taste, Wine Basics, Discovery, Home, The Wine Society I think the idea of a homemade salad cream … is terrific, I really do.” My testers also like the idea, and the reality of it, too, especially as made to his recipe, with English mustard and evaporated milk, though they’re less keen on it in this particular dish, preferring the richness of straight mayonnaise to any of the alternatives. unavailable. Brush with olive oil and leave to rise again for about another hour, or until doubled in size again. — Felicity Cloake — Bacon and Marmalade Cornbread — Felicity Cloake — Next → Latest Recipe Collections. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian. This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and Angela Hartnett* is among that number, but her recipe begins with a biga, or starter, which requires a 24-hour fermentation before use. According to Darra Goldstein’s classic work A Taste of Russia, Olivier’s original was a mixture “of cooked chicken and potatoes masked with mayonnaise”, but if that is indeed the case, it wasn’t long before it traded up: Escoffier’s 1903 recipe contains lobster, truffles and caviar. Try AbeBooks. Unless time is of the essence, I’d do the chopping afterwards – unless you watch them like a hawk, it’s easy to overcook diced vegetables. Fisher is the book featured in this episode of Backlisted. The principal liquid, however – as in any bread – is water, and lots of it; Hartnett warns the novice baker not to be afraid of adding too much: “It can never be too wet – just trust me on this – it will come together. The perfect focaccia Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian, Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, this amazing-looking cheese-stuffed version. What do you put in yours and, just as importantly, what do you serve it with? It’s easiest to knead wet doughs like this in a food mixer, but if you don’t have one, oil your work surface rather than flouring it, so that you don’t add any more dry ingredients to the mix. The last time I had Russian salad, on top of a slightly soggy slice of bread in a northern Italian bar, I wondered why we in the UK are so puzzlingly immune to its charms. If you do use it, I would, like Corrigan, recommend plonking it on top just before serving. The lobster, meanwhile, suffers from the opposite problem: despite offering a pleasingly meaty texture, with everything else going on here, its flavour gets a bit lost. makes a purchase. It makes them meltingly rich and soft, and just as luxurious as you would hope for from such a dish. Knead until soft and elastic; in a food mixer (preferable) on a medium-slow speed for about 7 minutes, or by hand on a lightly oiled work surface for 10-12 minutes. Put the carrot and turnip in the same pot of boiling water and cook until tender, checking both regularly, because they’ll probably be done at different times, then scoop out and add to the beans bowl. Put the flours in a large mixing bowl with the salt and yeast. The drier doughs are indeed denser and heavier, and it’s almost safest – given the difficulties of precision when it comes to hydration, which depends on any number of things from the flour you use to the humidity of the day you bake – to be as vague as the River Cafe, which simply instructs one to add enough water to make a “very soft and pliable dough”. A wiser woman than me (Elizabeth David) once wrote that "everyone who cooks, in … Finally, stir in the mayonnaise and serve – it’s even better after a few hours in the fridge, though. You don’t need too much of it, though; just enough lightly to coat the rest, rather than turning it into a claggy mess of unidentifiable ingredients, preferably with a dash of pickle juice or some other acid to pep things up a bit. Felicity Cloake. What, no spuds?! Spuds, boiled eggs, runner beans, mayo – and always, always ham ... or not. Do feel free to add herbs (rosemary sprigs are nice), olives, tomatoes, and so on. Richard Corrigan’s Russian salad. Peel the potatoes, carrot and turnip, if using, and top and tail the beans. Try AbeBooks. Download Soupologie 5 a day Soups Books now!Available in PDF, EPUB, Mobi Format. As with all breads, a very hot oven gives the best results – and baking it on a hot pizza stone or sheet, as Hartnett and Hazan suggest, will give your bread a pleasingly crisp bottom. Not too much, however; in this salad, moderation is everything – until it comes to helping yourself, obviously. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set. Though I'm not going to put semolina flour in the bread itself, I do like the crunch it lends Bertinet's version, so I will be dusting the baking tray with it, as I do when making pizza. For the homemade mayonnaise (alternatively, use 2-3 tbsp ready-made)2 egg yolks1 tsp dijon mustard 1 generous pinch salt250ml groundnut or sunflower oil25ml extra-virgin olive oil1 tbsp white-wine vinegar, or lemon juice, For the salad200g waxy potatoes (ie, about 4 small ones)100g carrots (ie, 1 medium one)100g turnip (about half a medium one, or 2 extra potatoes, if you prefer)50g green beans75g frozen peas 2 eggs2 large gherkins, plus 2 tbsp of their pickling liquid1 tbsp salted capers, rinsed50g ham or tongue (optional)1 small bunch dill or chives, finely chopped, To make the mayonnaise, beat the egg yolks and mustard in a large bowl until thickened (it’s helpful to anchor the bowl by putting a damp tea towel underneath it), then gradually whisk in the oils, very slowly at first. Perfect. Our 10 most popular easy baking recipes. This is the best kind of travel and food book - It makes you dream of doing the same.' Apple, sweetcorn, soft white beans: Ren Behan’s Russian salad. Unless you’re lucky enough to live somewhere where it’s cheap as chips, I’d save fancy seafood for a dish where it can be the star of the show – and anyway, the bolder flavours of the salted meat seem to work better with the sweetness of the vegetables and creaminess of the dressing in this dish. Should you roll or poke, and what should you serve them with? The Prawn Cocktail Years recipe, based on that by Escoffier, the great French chef and cookery writer of the late-19th century, includes that, but also tongue, lobster and, “if throwing caution to the wind”, caviar (or anchovies, should caution be something you wish to keep a firm hold on). The baking tray with the herbs `` Felicity Cloake this episode of.! Brush with olive oil and leave to rise again for about 25 minutes, the! Middle and add 100ml olive oil and leave to rise again for about Another hour, do. Prefer ciabatta, farinata or carta da musica, carrot and turnip, if using companion - curious,,. 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